North Jordan May 2023
Visited: Amman, Dead Sea, Umm Qais, Ajloun, Jarash
Not to be confused with Oman and not quite off-grid, Amman, which dates back to 8,000 BC (renamed Philadelphia in the 3rd century BC under Hellenistic rule as one of the cities of the Decapolis) is the capital of Jordan. It is one of the oldest cities in the world with the oldest statues in the world. It is built on 7 hills (or jabals) and has a population of about 4M Ammanis. If you need to place Jordan in the Arabic world, it is somewhere between the straight-laced Saudi Arabia and the frenetic Egypt.
Jordan shares borders with Syria, Iraq, Israel and Saudi Arabia. For reasons we can discuss shortly, Amman's altitude ranges from 700m through 1,100m above sea level. Unlike its Arab neighbours, it has no oil
Things you should know about being an Extreme Tourist in Amman (GMT + 2).
1. Is it tough to be a tourist is Amman & North Jordan?
North Jordan is home to Umm Qais, Ajloun, Jarash, Amman, Madaba, Mt. Nebo and the Dead Sea. But why stay in an Intercontinental or Hilton Hotel and be shielded exclusively from normal Jordan life when you can sample the Amman heartbeat right next to Rainbow Str.
2. How do you travel around Jordan?
Car hire costs anywhere between 20-30 JD per day in Amman. Driving through Amman, Jordanian's don't work with street names, They refer to the eight circles as the building blocks of Amman's urban planning. Watch out for the unremarkable speed humps that appear without warning outside Amman. Jordanian drivers don't use their indicators but once you've adjusted to the competitive driving style, you actually start enjoying the driving experience.
3. Is Amman a safe city?
Avoid raw and undercooked food. Drink only bottled water.
4. Do many locals speak English?
English is the main foreign language taught in school and is widely spoken in Jordan.
5. What essential stuff do I need to bring to Jordan?
Mosquito repellant!
6. Can you recommend any restaurants?
High on the list of any Jordanian recommendations are the following classic food outlets:
Hashem Restaurant, Downtown: Street food with a basic menu that never changes. Hummus, Moutabel, beans, Falafel, pita bread, Typical price will be 5 JD per person and the best part of the Hashem experience is the atmosphere.
Al Quds Falafel, Rainbow Street: Considered to be one of the best places in Amman for the humble falafel sandwich. I actually think there are better places for Falafel in Amman but you've gotta at least tick it off your bucket list. Typical price will be 1.5 JD for 2 falafel sandwiches.
Habibah Downtown: Specializes in Kunafa. Apparently there are three types: FIne Kunafa, Coarse Kunafa and a Mixed Kunafa. My favourite is the Course Kunafa. For me, Kunafa is the best dessert anywhere. It is made using shredded (noodle-like) phyllo dough stuffed with gooey, sweet cheese and drenched with sugar syrup and garnished with pistachios. Some countries such as Turkey serve Kunafa with vanilla ice-cream.
12:12 The Mid Coffeehouse, Rainbow St: Choose the Petra dish and chill. The date molasses mixed with Tahini sauce is unbeatable
7. Can you swim in the Dead Sea?
The Dead Sea is the lowest point on earth, 420m below sea level. It is 300m deep and has a salinity of 33% salt which makes it the 7th saltiest lake in the world. It is 50km from Amman and it's downhill all the way. And no, you cannot swim in the Dead Sea. You simply float but do make sure you don't have any cuts or rashes before stepping into the water.
8. What is the No.1 destination to chill in North Jordan?
Umm Qais is the northerly point of Jordan next to the Jordan Valley Border Crossing. Hang out at the Romero restaurant http://www.romero-jordan.com/um-qais.html at Umm Qais and look out at the breathtaking views of Syria, Golan Heights, Sea of Galilee, Israel and Lebanon. Head back to Amman via Jarash!
9. Jordan Mobile Calls?
At the time of writing, TikTok, WhatsApp Video calls are banned in Jordan. Even through messaging works well, you simply cannot receive or make calls via WhatsApp. Buy a Jordanian Sim card at the airport. The current cost is 15 JD for 20GB data over a 30 day period (ref. Orange).
10. How do I change money in Jordan?
Downtown Amman is heaving with FX kiosks and they all have the same FX rates so no need to shop around.
11. When is the best time to visit Jordan?
Spring (March through May) and Autumn (September through November)
12. Do I need a Jordanian visa?
Most visitors to Jordan need a visa. Many travellers can get a visa on arrival for 40 JD but it is possible to buy a Jordan Pass online for 70 JD if your stay in Jordan is a minimum of 3 nights (4 days). The pass includes the entry visa, a 1 day visit to Petra and access to over 40 attractions in Jordan. Check out the official Jordan Pass website: https://jordanpass.jo/. As it happens, I didn't buy a Jordan Pass as I wasn't visiting Petra this time round.
13. Can I recommend a place to stay?
Experience the real Amman, meet other world travellers and stay at Village 1947, courtesy of Airbnb with Omar and Zizo. It is a stone's throw from Rainbow Street.
14. Are there any other interesting and non-partisan websites in English about Jordan?
https://www.lonelyplanet.com/jordan
https://www.roughguides.com/jordan/travel-advice/
https://www.wanderlust.co.uk/destinations/jordan/
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